We are on the home stretch. If you made it this far, you followed the free go kart build plans and have the frame and rims painted. Let's put it all back together now. Make sure you add thread locker to the bolts and nuts so they wont vibrate loose. Blue Loctite 242 is a great thread locking compound that I used on all the nuts and bolts.
Mount the tires to the rims, insert the 5/8″ ID x 1 3/8″ OD bearings into the rims.
Tip: To avoid breaking the bearings, use a socket or small piece of pipe mated against the outer race of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing into the rim with a hammer.
For the front tires, you will need to bolt the spindles to the spindle brackets. Next, insert the 5/8″ ID x 1″ wide spacers to keep the tires from rubbing against the spindles. Next comes the tire assembly, 5/8″ machine washer, and 5/8″-11 nut. Do not over tighten the nut. The wheel should spin freely without the bearings binding. The thread locker will keep the bolt and nut secure, so finger tight is perfect. For the rear tires, you wont need spacers (only the rim, machine washer, and nut).
Engine and Clutch
Install the four bolts and nuts onto the engine for the mounting, but don’t tighten them all the way. Next, install the clutch, fender washer, and bolt for the engine shaft (don’t forget the 3/16″ key on the engine shaft). Next, install the chain with master link clip and push the engine toward the front of the kart. Use a straight edge to line up the clutch sprocket and the drive wheel sprocket. The chain tension should have a very small amount of play in it. When you are satisfied with the alignment and chain tension, tighten the engine mount bolts.
The brake band can be installed during the same step that the drive wheel is installed. Install the pedal, return spring, brake band, and clevis pin. Secure the band with the two cotter pins.
Install the gas pedal, throttle return spring, throttle cable, and connect the cable to the engine. Use zip ties to secure the throttle cable to the frame center beam.
Bolt the steering wheel to the steering shaft hub. Bolt the the tie rods to the pitman arm, and spindle arms. Take a measuring tape and measure the edges of the rims with the pitman arm pointing upward. Measure the front edges of the front rims, and the rear edges of the front rims. When the steering wheel is ‘centered’ the distance between front rims should be equal on both ends. You can make fine adjustments with the tie rod ends and nuts.
Bolt the kill switch to the steering hoop, and the kill switch ground to the steering hoop. Connect the long wire from the kill switch to the low oil sensor on the engine (replaces low oil cut off circuit with the kill switch circuit). If your engine does not have a low oil cut off circuit, you can trace a ground to the spark plug’s magneto. You can tie into the magneto’s ground wire instead.
Bolt the seat to the seat frame. Bolt the seat frame to the seat sliders. Bolt the seat sliders to the frame.
That’s right…. your done! Now go have some fun. Always wear a helmet and drive safe. Check out my YouTube channel (KartFab) for more awesome go kart videos.
Also, since this is a free build and I have invested a lot of time showing you how to build a kart, the best thing you can do for me is watch the YouTube videos all the way through, comment, share, and give them a thumbs up if you like them. I appreciate all of that, and want to hear any questions, or feedback that you may have.
Thanks again! Go drive that kart, it is meant to get dirty and it is built to last. If you do finish your build. Please feel free to send a few pictures of the finished kart with any comments or reviews of the build plans to my email here: