We are on the home stretch. If you made it this far, you followed the free go kart build plans and have the frame and rims painted. Let's put it all back together now. Make sure you add thread locker to the bolts and nuts so they wont vibrate loose. Blue Loctite 242 is a great thread locking compound that I used on all the nuts and bolts.
Mount the tires to the rims, insert the 5/8″ ID x 1 3/8″ OD bearings into the rims.
Tip: To avoid breaking the bearings, use a socket or small piece of pipe mated against the outer race of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing into the rim with a hammer.
For the front tires, you will need to bolt the spindles to the spindle brackets. Next, insert the 5/8″ ID x 1″ wide spacers to keep the tires from rubbing against the spindles. Next comes the tire assembly, 5/8″ machine washer, and 5/8″-11 nut. Do not over tighten the nut. The wheel should spin freely without the bearings binding. The thread locker will keep the bolt and nut secure, so finger tight is perfect. For the rear tires, you wont need spacers (only the rim, machine washer, and nut).
Engine and Clutch
Install the four bolts and nuts onto the engine for the mounting, but don’t tighten them all the way. Next, install the clutch, fender washer, and bolt for the engine shaft (don’t forget the 3/16″ key on the engine shaft). Next, install the chain with master link clip and push the engine toward the front of the kart. Use a straight edge to line up the clutch sprocket and the drive wheel sprocket. The chain tension should have a very small amount of play in it. When you are satisfied with the alignment and chain tension, tighten the engine mount bolts.
The brake band can be installed during the same step that the drive wheel is installed. Install the pedal, return spring, brake band, and clevis pin. Secure the band with the two cotter pins.
Install the gas pedal, throttle return spring, throttle cable, and connect the cable to the engine. Use zip ties to secure the throttle cable to the frame center beam.
Bolt the steering wheel to the steering shaft hub. Bolt the the tie rods to the pitman arm, and spindle arms. Take a measuring tape and measure the edges of the rims with the pitman arm pointing upward. Measure the front edges of the front rims, and the rear edges of the front rims. When the steering wheel is ‘centered’ the distance between front rims should be equal on both ends. You can make fine adjustments with the tie rod ends and nuts.
Bolt the kill switch to the steering hoop, and the kill switch ground to the steering hoop. Connect the long wire from the kill switch to the low oil sensor on the engine (replaces low oil cut off circuit with the kill switch circuit). If your engine does not have a low oil cut off circuit, you can trace a ground to the spark plug’s magneto. You can tie into the magneto’s ground wire instead.
Bolt the seat to the seat frame. Bolt the seat frame to the seat sliders. Bolt the seat sliders to the frame.
That’s right…. your done! Now go have some fun. Always wear a helmet and drive safe. Check out my YouTube channel (KartFab) for more awesome go kart videos.
Also, since this is a free build and I have invested a lot of time showing you how to build a kart, the best thing you can do for me is watch the YouTube videos all the way through, comment, share, and give them a thumbs up if you like them. I appreciate all of that, and want to hear any questions, or feedback that you may have.
Thanks again! Go drive that kart, it is meant to get dirty and it is built to last. If you do finish your build. Please feel free to send a few pictures of the finished kart with any comments or reviews of the build plans to my email here:
Plans | Materials | Cut | Frame | Axle | Floor | Engine | Seat | Steering | Brakes | Throttle | Extras | Paint | Final Assembly |
30 thoughts on “Go Kart Assembly Instructions”
Hello…bought the Deluxe Live Axle Kit and plans for son for X-mas gift and looking forward to build. Planning on stretching 6″ and perhaps widening about 3″ but trying to think what all would be impacted. Will the supplied 8″ and 18″ tie rods still work for the steering or should I find some a bit longer? Will need to adjust where I put the motor mount. Anything else I need to think about if I go a bit wider/longer? Thanks!
I cannot speak beyond what the plans call for. With that said, you can stretch it without modifying parts. If you go wider, you might need to get different tie rods.
a few things that I encounter during this Standard 2 seater Live axle project:
1. The Seat Slider plates in the instructions show that they are welded flush to the bottom of the flame vs. the free plans say the top of the frame. This was my biggest compliant because now my slider bolt sticks below the floor plan and remounting the plates is a pain.
2. The axle assembly instructions could be a little better. My kit came with 4 locking collars with hex bolts and two locking collars with one allen set screw. however, your picture in your plans show 6 of the beefier locking collars. Why do i have these wimpy colloars that i first assume go against the lip of the ebaring but apparently are meant to keep the rear wheel from moving inward? Why is my rear wheel base 3inches shorter than my front? does it matter which direction the bearings sit between the flangettes?
3. my chain is not long enough. i had to buy another two links to make it work.
4. the motor mount slots need to be reposition. welled in the most rearword position, it bottom out when trying to remove the slack. Had to modify the slots.
How do I connect the sprocket to the tire?
Hello, I was just wondering how much this project cost you in total. I would appreciate if you told me with engine and without.
If you follow the links to the kit, it tells you exactly how much it costs with and without the engine. Thanks and have a great day!
Hey Kart fab,
I have a 212 predator and was wondering if you really need fuel stabilizer, beacuse the company sounds like they really want you to use fuel stabilizer.
If using ethanol containing gas then yes. Almost all gas nowadays has ethanol. You might run into starting issues in as short as 1 months time if you don’t drain your tank and carb. You can go about a year using stabil without draining.
Yea so I bought the live axel go kart plans. Could you send me a list of go kart pieces I will need. I don’t want to buy a go kart material kit. That is the only material list I cant find. I have most of everything else. Also can I put a torque converter on it instead of a clutch
John, the list of the pieces is in the plans. If you click on the kit, it has a table of all parts that you can try to source individually. Yes you can put on a torque converter.
Could you send me a file for the 3D plans
has anyone else had issues with the bolt holes on the seat not lining up with the measurements on the plans? I just finished building the seat bracket and out of the 6 holes to attach the seat 2 or 3 line up.
How wide is the finished build?
We’re getting closer to completion, and this has been great fun for me and my sons. Everyone who sees the welded frame is very impressed.
We bought the Live Axle Plans and I don’t follow the rear axle assembly guidelines. I’m not clear where the locking collars go or how to install the bearings and the flangettes. I’m not even clear how the hangers and bearings work together. This is very new terrain for me, and my sons are eager to get on the road. Do you have any photos of the rear axle assembly? Is there a way to walk me through this in a bit more detail? I’d really appreciate it.
I finished final assembly last night. The only issue I’m concerned about is the clutch bolt. The instructions called for 5/16-24 x 1 1/4″. That bolt bottomed out in the motor shaft with about 3/8″ threads still showing. I just installed a shorter bolt and it seems to work.
Do you see any reason a shorter bolt wouldn’t work?
Depends on how you space the drive unit.
Can you make the kart project file available? I think it was done in google sketchup, was not it?
I cannot for copyright reasons.
We are building the standard live axle go-kart. We are getting close to final assembly. I’ve read the directions for assembling the rear axle and they make sense, but I have one concern: While each component on the rear axle has locking collars to keep it from sliding laterally, I don’t see any mechanism to keep the axle rod itself from moving from side to side. I suppose that tension in the chain would oppose lateral movement, though it isn’t really intended for that purpose. Am I worrying needlessly or have I missed a detail?
the bearings have locking collars on them. The set screws on the bearing collars will secure it to the axle.
I want to buy 10 go carts plz send me details with price i want for children’s and man so plz send the details i need urgent soon as soon
We have been running the go kart for a week with the kill switch working. On the second week we started the engine and noticed it was making a strange sound and we shut the engine off with the kill switch. It appeared the bolt has come loose on the clutch. We reapply the locktite and tighten the nut to secure the clutch. We restarted the engine and the kill switch does not work after tighten the clutch. Can you recommend how I will fix this.
Is this large enough for an adult? Or is it just for children?
i can ride it and im 6’3″ however, if you want, you can stretch the kart by extending the frame length by 6″ in the middle.
Helo i wanna make a go cart as my school project. Am in Uganda but i don’t know how to purchase that kit
i want the conception 3D of GO KART thanks
What does the engine run on?
Gasoline. Just regular unleaded no more than 10% ethanol standard gasoline.
This is good