Go Kart Engines: Predator 212cc Performance

predator 212cc engine with performance parts

If you came to this page you are probably looking for a go kart engine or a predator 212cc engine, you are in luck. I have been upgrading and building go karts for years and have some engine buying advice for the racer, or novice yard kart driver. Lets have a look at the options for performance mods & stock engines:

Go Kart Engines

Most go kart engines fall into the category of race karts, or fun /  yard karts. That lines have blurred with the advent of cheap Chinese  predator 212cc go kart engines.

Go kart engines can be used for racing or just putting around the yard depending on what performance parts (or mods) that you upgrade.

There are many small industrial 4 stroke engines you can use, but who cares about them. Lets skip all those, and just go straight to the cheapest, and very reliable go kart engine: the predator 212cc 6.5 hp engine.

Predator Engines

Predator engines have destroyed the competition. Because they are so inexpensive, predator engines have opened a whole new world to go karters. They are cheap, and can easily be modified for ad212cc predator engineded performance.

Predator engines literally bolt right on to virtually all standard go karts ever made. The bolt mounting pattern is universal.

 

If you have an old go kart you need to restore, you can simply buy a predator 212cc engine (amazon link) and breath new life into an old go kart. This engine is a performer right out of the box, and should get your go kart running anywhere from 20 mph all the way up to 35mph in its stock form. But we cant leave well enough alone can we? Let’s get to the modifications.

Predator 212cc Engine Performance Parts

Predator 212cc engines can have their stock parts removed, and replaced with performance parts (parts that increase horsepower and speed compared to the stock predator 6.5 hp engine). Here is a quick overview of what I recommend doing first.

predator 212 performance intake and exhaust kit
predator 212 performance intake and exhaust kit

Engines need three things: air, fuel and spark. When you add more air and fuel into an engine, you get more torque and horsepower, which is the cheapest bang for your buck.

predator 212cc high flow intake adapter and air filter
predator 212cc high flow intake adapter and air filter

Intake The stock air filter and intake keeps the engine from ‘breathing in’ too much air. The less restriction you have for the engine’s air intake, the more air and fuel will enter the combustion chamber. A predator 212cc high flow intake adapter and high flow air filter literally bolt on to the existing carburetor and require no more than a wrench and screwdriver to install. This will give you extra power when you step on the gas.

predator 212cc performance exhaust pipe high flow header
predator 212cc performance exhaust pipe high flow header

Exhaust The stock predator muffler keeps the engine from ‘breathing out’ too much air. If you have lots of  air coming into the engine, you need to release it with little resistance for added performance. That’s when the predator 212cc performance high flow exhaust header really comes into play. You are now able to shove air and fuel quickly into the engine, and release it with little resistance, adding some serious horsepower and torque that you can FEEL when you step on the gas.

Re-Jet With all the air you are putting into the engine, you may also need to drill out the jet a little bigger. Making the hole in the jet larger will allow more fuel to enter the combustion chamber, preventing a ‘lean’ condition that overheats and destroys engines when they have the governor removed. If you have the intake and exhaust complete, go ahead and drill out the jet. Most people use between a #36 and #38 jet in conjunction with the predator 212cc performance parts. If this is something you are not comfortable doing, you can always search for a jet and install one like I did in this short video below.

Remove Governor The governor does what it is named after. It governs the rotations per minute (RPMs) of the go kart engine. Removal is kind of difficult as you will need to open up the crankcase cover, remove the governor, plug the hole you created, and hook up a direct throttle afterwards. Sound complicated? Heres a video. If you are not comfortable doing this, you can REALLY mess up an engine by improperly removing the governor, dropping lifters, or bending valves because you didn’t know what the heck the engine timing was all about and didn’t line up the camshaft dots. Does any of this not make sense to you? If so, scroll below the video for the answer.

Not mechanically inclined? Small engines are perfect to learn on as they are very simple. You can find a standard predator212cc engine online, then work your way up with mods by replacing the intake, exhaust, jet,  and disconnecting the governor. It is up to you what you would like to do, and I have added just enough information here for you to get into the go kart engine scene. Good luck and have fun zooming around in your modded predator 212cc performance go kart engine!

336 thoughts on “Go Kart Engines: Predator 212cc Performance”

  1. Why is the rear of the predator engine inclined on racing go karts. Is there some performance advantage. It seems that it would affect float bowl operation.

    1. I an no expert, but I know the reason that I have mine on a 15 degree angle is so the intake upgraded filter clears the rear wheel.

  2. Ok so I have a question. I have the 212 predator. I have just done the ARC flywheel, govenor removal, and added 26lbs valve springs. The distance on flywheel was set to 0.030 and the lash on valves was set to .003 as per what I have seen everywhere. The problem I am having is that everytime I try and start the kart there is a serious kick back. Could these springs be to much for the stock cam or should my lash be set differently? Any advice you can give me on this would be great.

    1. The camshaft has a compression release on it. If you installed the cam wrong, or have no compression release, that would do it. Did you verify timing with the flywheel? A common mistake is not tightening the flywheel nut, which causes the flywheel key to shear off.

      1. The cam was never touch. It the stock cam. The ARC flywheem has a built in 8 degree timing on it and I am using the stock timing key. The not has been tightened down to 54 lbs psf. I was thinking that maybe the 26lbs springs where to much for the stock cam.

        1. Do you know how to pull start properly? its probably not the valve springs. With my briggs 5 hp flathead, if I don’t rotate it to the compression stroke, and yank hard, it kicks back. Just pull on the cord gently to turn the engine over till you feel resistance on the compression stroke, then let the cord wind back up, then pull gently until you feel that tension, then give it a yank. if that doesn’t solve your issue, pull out the plug and see if it rotates freely. If you accidentally had the engine upside down or have a gas leak from the carb, it could get into the cylidner and over-pressurize the cylinder head. Pulling on the cord with the spark plug out will clear the hole. If it rotates freely, then put your plug back in. B\ack to square 1, –> you have a compression issue related to camshaft and valvetrain, or flywheel not in the correct position in relation to top dead center. Kickback is caused by spark and/or valves doing their thing at the wrong time.

          1. Ok sounds good, how do I make sure. My flywheel is in the right position in relation to TDC? Do I need to bring engie to TDC and than install the flywheel?

          2. piston stop tool, degree wheel, timing light: these are the tools the pros use to get real world numbers, but not all of us are pros, or have $60 laying around to get those tools… so the simplest way to make sure your flywheel is still good is to take off the flywheel nut, then pull the flywheel and inspect the key. If it all checks out, then revisit your valvetrain and camshaft.

          3. Thanks so much. I was finally pinpointed the problem. Looks like ny valve lash was set wrong. Once I adjusted it everything was perfect. Has a small little kick, but nothing to bad.

  3. so i have a go kart with the predator 212 that i am upgrading and a have a few questions. will the after market go power sports air filter fit on a mikuni 22mm carb and what other upgrades do you suggest note engine is stock

    1. You need to measure the intake outter diameter and the air filter can be a tiny bit smaller than that (its rubber so it will stretch) or about the same size as the hose clamps on it. If you are doing intake, you need to do exhaust. Since you have a mikuni on there, it automatically has ‘bypassed’ the governor, so please take the governor internals out as a safety precaution. After that id do the billet connecting rod, and heavier valve springs and see how you like it.

      1. thanks i have ordered the preformence kit that you show in your tips from go power sports will that exaust be good for the exaust and looking at getting alot more preformence mods for the engin what other sits shuld i look at

    1. I have a predator 212cc engine and it runs and I’m in the middle of moving it onto another body (frame) and it will start and everything, but it won’t idle unless it is on choke so when I turn the choke off it dies unless I rev up the engine then it will run but as soon as I let off the throttle it dies so in wondering what I need to do to get it to idle?

  4. I bought my daughter a go kart with a predator 212cc engine. It has been an experience being that I don’t know anything about engines. Anyway the starter recoil wasn’t pulling. She removed it to see if the rope was caught up…long story short we bought a new one and put it on today but it still won’t pull. I read that the engine won’t start if the oil is low and I checked it and it’s almost black so we will change the oil – my question is would the oil being low/obviously nasty be a reason for not being able to pull the starter? Sorry if it’s a stupid question but I am trying to learn…

    1. hmmm good questions. From the sounds of it, with the engine oil being black, that this go kart engine is used. Do some basic looking at the engine, make sure the gas tank has gas, the kill switch is set to ON, fuel lever on carb is set to ON, and the choke is ON when starting (try flipping to OFF if you cant get it to start after a few pulls). When you say the engine wont pull, as in it wont turn over? Take out the spark plug and pull on the cord, if it wont start, your engine is either seized or has some serious problems internally (e.g. broken). If you can get it to turn over (not start, just rotate), then you go to the next step; hold the sparkplug edge (the big hex nut looking part) to any bare metal on the engine while pulling the cord. You should see a little spark jumping the gap. An engine in a nutshell needs air, fuel, and spark. So if you have spark, you need to check air. This is easy, just remove the air filter and check to see if its dirty (they need to be really clogged up to not deliver air). If it seems ok, go down to an autoparts store like oreiley or autozone and buy a can of carb cleaner (or starting fluid) spray a tiny squirt down the hole that the air filter covered. Turn the choke to off. Pull start the engine. It should start within 2-3 pulls and run only for a few seconds. If it only runs for a few seconds, you have a fuel delivery issue where the gas tank, fuel line, and carburetor need to be cleaned out thorougly. If it doesn’t start, then good luck haha!

  5. Hi kart fab. I took your advice on the 212 predator and removed the governor and upgraded the exhaust jets and intake. Before I installed jets and intake I already had pipe. Now that I removed the governor and upgraded intake I have lost top speed. I top out at 35 when top speed used to be 40. Any idea Why?

    1. Jeremy, you messed something up that isn’t caused by the high flow intake, exhaust, or jetting. The intake/exhaust/jetting will allow the kart to run (combined with other modifications) to an extremely high rpm (we got a kart with just the intake/exhaust/jetting to hit 60 mph). Sit back for a second and ask yourself. What parts did I touch on the engine? Anything you touched, you could have messed up. My guess is that the throttle linkage setup you have isn’t fully opening the throttle butterfly, and you will need to adjust it or install it properly.

      1. I have new throttle cable and handle on the way. I will reevaluate. Although when I pull throttle I see that the throttle arm on the carb does move as far as possible both ways. Would the vacuum lines (or lack of now) that were attached to the old air box make a difference now that they are no longer there?

        1. No. The gas tank vent line and OHV breather tube are for vapor recovery and provide no benefit to performance. They should be vented to atmosphere. Again, please go over everything you touched, and try a go kart forum where you can post pictures for lots of help.

      2. Hi kart fab. I have just recently bough another predator 212 engine (used) and the previous owner has removed the govener. My question is how long can i hold down the throotle during rideing it im worried that my engine would blow up if its held down for to long. I have looked all over google and you tube to find the max time but had no luck im thinking you know and could possibly help me

        1. There is no answer to your question, that is why you couldn’t find it. Engines dont just “blow up” or have some magical timer in them. The most common causes of engine failure (often catastrophic) once you remove the governor are valve to piston contact when you float the valves on an OHV engine, oil starvation on the crankshaft journal, or flywheel shattering. If you want to avoid those things, you get a billet connecting rod, billet flywheel, and valve springs appropriate for your target max rpm. Again, there is no answer to your question.

  6. In one of your videos, I noticed that you use Amsoil (it appears so anyway) I’m actually a dealer and I’m curious which “flavor” you prefer in a predator? I’ve been wanting to order some with my next order, but I’m not sure whether to use the small engine oil or the Amsoil/Briggs 4T oil.

    Also do you use break-in oils or additives, or just dump straight Synthetic in from the beginning? Thanks

    1. for regular karts, synthetic mobil 1 10w30 for break in and riding around. For performance builds, i use the royal purple break in oil and royal purple HPS synthetic to protect cam and lifters. Amsoil would be a good one as well as long as it has the ZDDP in it to protect cam lobes and lifter surfaces.

  7. I have a 212cc Predator engine with some modifications which include haters, sprayers, and intake. And it’s not a hemi engine. What else can I do to make it faster and I did not want to remove the governor.

    1. Ok, so I have no idea what ‘haters and sprayers’ are…And to answer your question, you cannot make your engine ‘go faster’ at all without removing the governor. When I say you cant make it ‘go faster’, I am referring to the maximum governed RPM of the engine. If you want to make whatever you have your engine connected to (I’m assuming mini bike or go kart) go faster while maintaining the same maximum governed RPM, you only have two options. 1) get bigger tires and/or 2) change your gear ratio through clutch sprocket or axle sprocket changes. Faster= more teeth on clutch (or torque converter jackshaft)

  8. I got a predator 6.5 I got a new carb put on it runs but if I try to gas it all the way it wouldn’t go it would wanna shut of do you know what could be the problem ?

    1. depends on which mod, but what I suggest is that you do modifications in stages because some mods (e.g. jetting) wont work without the others (e.g. intake and exhaust). So the first mod would be the intake/exhaust/jet, the next mods open you up to a lot of options, but you typically see the next step being a high risk to connecting rod failure and sometimes flywheel failure, so you get a billet rod and flywheel with the governor removal to unlock higher rpms. After that, there are so many combinations to look at, that your specific needs dictate which parts you get. For an all around good performer, you advance 4-6 deg timing, mild (low lift, high duration) cam, and heavy valve springs and call it good. Again, there are so many more combinations out there that i could write maybe 20 or so articles on it and only be scratching the surface.

  9. thanks for the info i just bought a predator 212cc getting ready to go get another one thanks for the mod info

  10. Is it possible to change the engine to a larger predator engine on the deluxe live axle go kart and if so whats the largest engine that would fit.

    1. yeah, there have been a couple guys that have done the 420cc predator with the bolt on 40 series and its more than enough engine. If you want to put the predator 620 on there, good luck, its a huge engine and will have too much torque. It will fit though… you may need to build the frame slightly longer (up to 6″) in the engine mount area so you still have plenty of leg room so the seat can clear the engine. No mods to 420/frame to have it fit.

  11. I am racing a predator 212cc with the governor removed. What can I do to get my kart to go faster? Modified cam? New to racing.

    1. to make your go kart faster, you just do what I suggested in the article for the highest increase in performance. After that, you do the springs, cam, etc. There are plenty of other performance modifications, but you need to find out on your own what works the best for your your needs (e.g. max rpm, torque, power band, will pass tech, etc. Beyond that, here are the safety items at increased rpms (connecting rod and flywheel) and then there are the valvetrain upgrades that would depend on max rpms and cam (lifters, valves, pushrods, rockers, retainers)

        1. Why are you not enjoying it? You will need to explain what the problem actually is before I can recommend anything. A lot of times, people buy a go kart that originally had a torque converter on it, that has been converted to a centrifugal clutch – in these instances you want to go back to a torque converter. Other times (same problem), people are wanting to make their go kart faster, then gear it so poorly (for high speed) that the go kart no longer accelerates well, and burns up the clutch before it can even reach that speed. What I am getting at here is that GEARING is a huge deal, so make sure your gearing is good for the weight/tire size/engine and track. If you are racing your go kart, the difference between a standard centrifugal clutch (maxtoqrque etc) and a disc clutch (noram cheetah, bully) is night and day, but some classes may not allow them. A good step up from the maxtorque, would be the noram GE, but it is still a crappy little centrifugal clutch, and if your gearing is off, then you wont like it either. All the higher classes of racers use the disc style clutches with the 4 stroke engines as far as i know.

      1. I got the same engine on my kart and it runs great i am light and the go kart is very light as well since it has no roll cage and all rhat fancy stuff but i hit around 40 mph on it max but i have one problem woth my kart i dont know much about go karts since this is my first one and im new to the whole thing but my front wheel wobbles and it seems loose even though it is not ive looked into it and i think its a bent rim but i cant really tell if its bent on my kart it also doesnt touch the ground sometimes either only on that wheel so when i hit the gas the go kart will turn slightly giving it that feeling like your about to loose control but if its a bent rim can i heat weld it since i have a guy that is a professional heat welder and also can you give me some ideas of what else it kight be thank you

        1. u can make a steering assit to keep it from wobbie find a small shock real lite like the kind that are on hatch back like blazer or even just one that holds a rear window make sure u can push it shut easy with ur hand get some small u bolts mount it to u turn buckles or tie rods make sure theres enough travel so u can turn both ways it will stop the wobble the little cylinder keeps it steady if u look up steering assist for 4x4s trucks it will show u what i mean its a smaller verison same thing keeps ur truck stable so ur front wheel dont shimmy check it out on4 wheel drives u can get the hatch shock at a junk yard i put one one my 660 rapure raceing quad

    2. After all the basic modifications to the 212cc engine how fast do you think it’ll go? Also is it just worth it buying a bigger Predator engine ?

  12. I just dynoed my predetor 6.5 after doing mods note these mods were done to a brand new motor never seen oil non hemi model ..air intake and filter adapter .. removed govener pulse pump fuel pump …. Stiffer valve springs ..and carb jet…put oil in first start on Dyno …..end results 11.4 hp and 14.6 ft lbs trq

  13. I’m planning on running to about 95 to a 100 mph with a predator 212cc engine . I’m want to put the engine on a doodle bug d30 frame and I need some help on gear ratios , and what others parts necessary for I can reach my goal. thanks email me @mikelwilliams718@gmail.com if you can provide me help

    1. Well, i do not condone this, and you will probably never make it that fast. If you do even approach those speeds, you will likely die from the crash as the db30 has a very narrow base. Here is an article that goes over the Bonneville salt flats, and what a team of guys did to get to 73 mph on a much larger frame. Good luck, and please dont take this as an insult, but you shouldnt want to go that fast on that mini bike, as death or serious injury is very real, and there is no reset button in life. https://www.affordablegokarts.com/bonneville.php

  14. Hey kartfab,

    Just acquired a Pred212cc and am planning on all the simple stuff, ungovern/intake/exhaust/e-tube/jets. I was wondering why (or why not) I should get a billet flywheel as an upgrade as well?

    I’m also curious what is the next step towards upgrades as in, what’s the best path to take (i.e. springs, connecting rod, piston ect.) ?

    1. If you do upgraded springs, you need the billet rod. Piston is only for serious upgrades. Upgrades depend on your target, as there are so many different combinations. Flywheel is debateable, and only really required if you are revving very high (ine xcess of 5500 rpm)

      1. Hey kartfab,

        Awesome stuff, thank you much for that info. I don’t really have a direction yet but may plan on circuit racing, we’ll see.

        I just finished installing an intake/exhaust/re-jet/ungovern engine, but now my engine will not start. I have ignition ( blue sparks on grounded frame ) and I’m positive that it’s getting fuel. Any ideas?

        1. If you opened up the engine it could be that you forgot to align the dots on the cam/crank gear. It could be that the valvetrain is messed up somehow (check lifters, and make sure the pushrods are set in the little pockets on the lifters and rocker arms, then check/set valve lash. When you remove governor, you remove the engines ability to hold throttle wide open at start. Choke on, throttle wide open, then start. Obvious (but overlooked sometimes) is make sure the kill switch is set to ON 🙂 hope that helps!

  15. i need help with a honda oddssey 1977-1981 i nwed info on motor and need to know hiw to identify a hemi motor

  16. Hi KartFab,

    Got a stock Predator 212 non-hemi, governor still installed. Recently upgraded carb (.615 venturi, .022 idle jet, .038 main, stock e-tube) plus air filter & header. Gas delivery to carb is fine. The bike runs decent but sputters in mid to high RPMs. Do I need a bigger e-tube and possibly different size jets? Any advice you could give would be appreciated.

    1. .035 to .038 main is fine for a stock venturi. The larger you go with the venturi, the bigger you need to jet because you lose the venturi effect and the airflow across the venturi slows down. You not only need to base jetting on how the engine runs, but what the plug looks like. Id definitely get a “140 e -tube (its just a honda gx140 emulsion tube btw with a bigger opening at the bottom and fewer air mixture holes so you get a better fuel signal at the venturi). .038 is usually a good jet size for the predator engines btw.

      1. Thank you sir. I will check plug for lean/rich. And thank you for providing this site & your knowledge, it’s awesome.

  17. I have a Yerf Dog 3203 with a stock predator 212, it pulls pretty well, but if I set the choke to “run” it just bogs down and dies when I hit the pedal. It runs fine when it’s set half way between “start” and “run”., what could this mean. Also, is there anyway I would be able to tighten my brake band down in the rear? Through the cable at all?

    1. 1) you have a partially clogged jet in yoru carb, clean yoru fuel system out (tank, filter, fuel line and carb)
      2) brake bands are simple. Not sure. Check manual.

    2. Is your yerf dog a larger cart ? If so how does it pull I have a twister kart full suspend tin and thinking about using the 212 cause I got it for free !!

      1. depends on how you gear it, a large two seat go kart should have a predator 420 on it in my opinion. The yerf dog i had was very light and small, even then it had a 7″ driven, and was geared for only 28-30mph.

  18. I’m not able to do the intake, air filter or exhaust due to rules at a track. Is it worth rejetting without doing any of the others?

    1. The question you should ask yourself is this, what is the purpose of the jet? You need to step back and look at 1) what a performance modification actually does, and 2) if you do that modification, what will the result be.

      Heres an example: A bone stock engine is properly jetted. When you add a high flow intake/exhaust, you introduce more airflow into the engine, which throws off the fuel to air mixture, which requires re-jetting the carb to restore that lost fuel to air ratio. So when you ask me, is it worth re-jetting if you don’t do anything else, all I hear is “is it worth it to change the jet size in a properly jetted engine?” Sounds silly doesn’t it? If you change the jet size too large, your engine will run rich, be sluggish off the line, and may shoot out black soot. It will have reduced torque. If you run your engine too lean with a small jet, it will heat up too hot, not have torque, not reach higher rpms, and may actually seize. I hope that helps. If you want a miniscule edge, you take your engine to a professional engine builder, and have him make minute jetting changes to slightly lean it out at operating rpms for an edge.

  19. I’m trying to find a stock air filter element. The air filter box lid is a clip on and has the sloped front. Anyone one know if a particular Honda or brigs filter would fit?

    1. Look at the parts diagram in the users manual, it lists the part number. Google the part number and you will find plenty of places. If all else fails, you order it from harbor freight direct.

  20. I have a 212 CC Predator motor that I just got every time I go to make a right turn it stalls out what is the problem???? Maybe out of all the list of comments this one’s already been answered but it’s a long list of comments to go through thank you

    1. Easy fix, its your low oil cut off sensor, which everyone disables. Locate the yellow wire that looks like it is coming out of a nut on the front lower portion of your engine block. Follow that wire into a little bundle of wires, and un-clip the wire bundle. Disconnect the yellow wire (it has a bullet connector) from that bundle of wires, and secure the bundle back together with that plastic clip. This wire is not needed for operation and you should always check the oil level before you run your engine from now on.

  21. Ok so. I bought the intake, muffler, and the drilled jet on amazon; with that being said i can go ahead and remove the governor and not worry about anything else? I also have a few questions but they’re pretty extensive but they’re all on the predator 212cc. Maybe someone with experience can email and give me a 1 on 1 run through. Here is my email > xmalcomisbeast5@gmail.com

    1. A lot of people new to modifying engines have the same questions, so please post here I usually reply within a week or less. When removing the governor, you need to actually fill the hole the governor sat in. You can get a cheap tap and die set at harbor freight and tap some threads in it and use some threadlocker and secure the hole with a bolt. All parts of the internal governor have to go out. You would need to either jimmy up a throttle linkage, which is pretty easy, but can break your carb throttle if you dont have a travel limiter set up on your gas pedal. Ahother great option is like a $6-$35 part you can get on amazon/ebay, wherever “direct throttle linkage”

    1. Ronnie, you would be correct. One thing people tend to overestimate is the hp rating. There is no way to actually know the hp rating unless you take it to a dyno and they measure the hp and torque at a given rpm. So, with that said, please understand that upgrades are like trees, the trunk is all the same (the predator 212cc), and each time you do an upgrade, you branch off higher. There are many, many combinations of upgrades that could result in a ‘fully modded’ predator, just like there are many leaves on a tree. With that said, your friend may be pulling 10 hp out of his little predator, who knows. Nobody really without the dyno slip. The fact that someone even mentioned 80 hp as a max is a true testament to their ignorance.

    2. 80 hp is a absurd claim. I think one could increase the 6.5 hp rating by half with the intake , jetting , exhaust mods and governor removal . Close to 10 hp should be fairly easy

      1. I have seen Dyno reading from some built Predators with big cams, big carbs, custom exhaust, etc,, etc. that are in the mid 30 HP range. It all depends on what you want o do with the HP. A couple of years ago two builders had a build off with the HONDA GX200 and one produced 45 HP for 30 seconds and that was the end of that engine. The more you upgrade the Predator engine the less reliable it becomes.

  22. I want to remove the fuel tank from the engine and use the tank i have on the front section of my kart. I know i’d need a fuel pump but how can i do this as there’s nothing on the internet!

    1. ethan, there is plenty of information on the internet. You need to just search for things the right way. Look for pulse pump installation, go kart fuel pump, how to etc. there will be three hoses coming out of the pulse pump, one goes to the carb fuel inlet, one goes to the fuel tank (which needs an inline filter btw), and the final hose goes to the pulse fitting. Pulse fittings can be installed on the carb insulator (some aftermarket insulators come pre-installed with one) or the crankcase cover, or the valve cover. Some modification may be necessary to install the pulse fitting, or you may need to purchase a new insulator or valve cover with that fitting already there if you arent willing to put forth the effort to modify your own.

      Hope that helps!

  23. Hello. I have a go kart (one seater) with a stock predator 212cc. I wanna add performance parts n take out the governor but i want to know what exact things im gonna need to put on the predator (am i going to need a new flywheel or add a special rod or a direct throttle, etc.) after removing the governor so i dont fuck it up.

    1. depends on max rpm. for most people if you LEAVE THE STOCK SPRINGS IN you only need to do intake/exhaust/governor removal/and re-jet. If you are getting new springs, id FOR SURE get a new connecting rod. The flywheel is the last upgrade id do on an engine, and even that is debatable.

  24. So I just bought a mini bike with the predator 6.5. The chain seems to fall off when I get going a bit. Is there a good way to tighten the chain or should I look at something else?

    Thanks

    1. Yes, there are ways to tighten the chain tension. Most mini bikes either have slots in the engine mounting plate that let you move the engine forward or rearward, or have some type of axle adjustment bolt/lock nut-nut combo on the rear axle. What you should do is put the mini bike centered on a 5 gallon bucket, then spin the rear wheel to make sure the sprocket is not out of round. If that checks out, take a straight edge (like a long level or piece of straight metal) and put it flat against the axle sprocket, it should line up perfectly with the clutch sprocket on the mini bike. If those two things check out, then you can look at chain tension. You want chain tension to be not super tight, but not loose. You can press on a properly adjusted chain with your finger and still have some flex in the chain. Keep in mind that mini bikes and go karts are not precision made machines, so you would need to check tension by rotating the engine or rear wheel a couple times to make sure its not too tight at a certain spot of rotation. Hope that helps!

      1. And most certainly, MAKE SURE YOUR CHAIN IS NOT STRETCHED! This happened recently to me, thought the chain was loose. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the chain was fully engaged in the driven sprocket, but in the bottom the chain had enough slack that it would allow the chain to jump a tooth. So I would take your chain, disconnect the master link (hopefully you have one!), and wrap it around the large driven sprocket. If the chain appears tight and engaged on one side and loose and ready to fall off, it’s time for new chain!

  25. I’m building the fixed axel two seat go kart from the plans and was wondering if the 6.5hp 212cc engine was the biggest one that would fit on the kart, or could you go bigger and more powerful without messing up the torque or running out of space?

    1. A few people have put the predator 420cc with bolt on 40 series torque converter on it, and it mounts to the existing plate if you got the standard or deluxe live axle kit. You may need to tack weld the plate on and possibly move it back a tiny bit so the seat slides backward, but it definitely fits. The kart is really torquey and can do donuts easily in dirt with that engine. Same top speed though (33-35 mph)

  26. Hey Kartfab I have a problem with my Hemi 212. I removed the govenor than put some carb/injector cleaner in the tank. I put it back in the bike and started it up. It ran real high in choke than ran like absolute trash in run. I would hit the gas and it would sputter and not get any fuel or combustion but when i let off it idles fine. ???? Do fuel additives affect the energy that gas contains?

    1. The cleaner stuff is garbage. You should never use it in that instance. Plus you have no need for it anyway since it’s not fuel injected. Also, the concentration used in a 10 gallon tank vs maybe half gallon is something to think about. You probably just ruined your gas by adding too much. Empty your entire tank, and clean your carb like you should (if it’s dirty) then use regular pump gas. Fuel additives are not in any way beneficial to your engine, nor is higher octane (premium gas) unless you had your compression ratio changed to 10:1-11:1. The only additive I use in my gas is the fuel stabilizer that helps reduce the harmful effects of ethanol and keeps it fresh for up to 1 yr. it’s called ‘Stabil’

  27. I am having trouble with my mini bike that I put a predator 212 on. I did the performance upgrades, but now everytime I start it up, it runs for a few seconds, and then dies. if I try to unchoke it, it stalls immediately. Also, when I can get to the throttle fast enough, when I rev it it just sputters, revving high, and then low, and then high, and so on.
    I will leave a link to a video of my problem:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iS7vJFxuD8&feature=youtu.be

    1. Your governor arm is acting funny, like it’s engaging too soon. Did you jack up your governor linkage or governor arm bolt? You can adjust or remove it at this point… Might want to remove it and try a direct linkage. I’m not sure what you did, but it could be running lean. Did you rejet? Are all carb gaskets installed properly? Carb clean?

  28. Hi I have the preditor 212. Engine only runs with choke on. I’ve cleaned the carb and checked for air leaks but everything seems sealed. When choke id turned off engine dies unless already full throttle. Also the air filter box seems to be blowing air when filter is off and intake is open. Bought used

    1. check gaskets from the intake side all the way in. There is also a gasket that people seem to lose between carb and airbox. Sometimes gaskets are reversed accidentally. Next, clean your carb for real. Take out emulsion tube and jet. Also pilot jet etc. Could be the idle pilot jet.Its just running lean, and you gotta figure out why its running lean, which usually is an air leak after the carb, or partially blocked jet(s).

  29. Building a 212cc bicycle now using a26in Schwinn Blackwell…..I ordered the small pipe and high flow air filter with jet change…. also got a torque converter… trying to figure out the proper gear ratio

  30. When removing the stock airbox, there are 2 hoses. the gas tank vent and the crankcase ventilation hose. Installing an aftermarket air filter will not have a place to plug those hoses in. So what would you recommend to do with them? Im wondering if I could just put on tiny air filters for both connections

    1. the tank hose is a one way check valve, so you dont have to do anything with it actually. The crankcase vent hose should be vented to a catch can, or you could put a little air filter on it.

    2. I used a hole punch and put holes in the rubber base if the new filter. Had to get a longer hose for crankcase vent. Thenjoy I sealed the hose in with silicone. Have put about 5 hours on it with no issues.

  31. i have a predetor 6.5 hp 212cc motor on a mini bike ,ive installed the high peformance air filtr and exhaust and rejetted the carb ,also have removed the govenor. After about ten runs around the block {not all at one time} the piston slammed the plug put a hle in the piston and bent a valve and a pushrod.any suggestions on how to prefent it from happening again?

    1. Hmm something is not adding up. If you over rev the engine, you could get valve float which can cause what you explained in an OHV engine. If you plan on taking the engine up to about 5500 rpm, you could get by with heavy valve springs, and a billet stick length connecting rod. If you rev past that you could spin or grenade your flywheel.

      1. You would need to test it on a dyno. Anybody that says othwerwise without the dyno numbers is just making stuff up. Also, HP is dependent on rpms, and there is no real ‘standardized’ way of reporting hp across brands. E.g. hp at 3600 rpm vs 5252 rpm vs peak torque. All of this is modified by modifying the engine.

      2. I need help my 212cc predator engine wont start. It was cranking fine then nothing. I took the carburetor apart cleaned it but one problem I had with that was I cant get my main jet to break loose to take it out. So I cleaned the rest of the carburetor and put it back together and still nothing. Any suggestions?

        1. Mike, it could be any number of things. Please do not cut corners. I can virtually guarantee that if gas has been in your engine for more than a month and it worked before, but now it doesn’t, that you have a fuel delivery problem – IF you didn’t change anything on the engine. So with that said, clean out the tank, tank filter, fuel line, and carb. Giving up and putting it back together, then asking for suggestions will just give you the same answer that you already know; which is – REMOVE THE JET and emulsion tube, clean it out very well first. Just last month I spent about 10-20 messages back and forth between a guy that just couldn’t get this engine to run right – at the very first, he was like you, he KNEW he needed to clean the carb, and he said that he DID (but 3 weeks later and lots of frustration later he conceded to me that he actually couldn’t remove the jet on his carb, and that it was his jet that was clogged and three weeks of troubleshooting on his own terms, and his own ‘expertise’ weren’t enough to just do what you KNOW you need to do. Unscrew the jet, and clean the jet and emulsion tube out. If you cant unstick the jet, please get the right size flathead screwdriver to do this with. You can set your engine up on a bench, clamp it down, and undo the carb fuel bowl, then access the jet from underneath. You can really get some torque there to break it loose. Hope that helps, and please dont cut any corners here: do what you already know you should do 1st.

  32. Should the clutch have some play? Goes in and out like 1/2″. Chain keeps coming off. Couldn’t move the motor anymore forward so took off a link and adjusted the motor and still poppped off.

    1. some clutches have a set screw on them. If the clutch has play in it and you cant secure it with a set screw, then you need to get a spacer to push up against the clutch, then a flat washer against the spacer, then the bolt to secure it all to the engine shaft.

  33. My son is rebuilding his go kart for a high school class. The Predator isn’t certified for CA, and the school has denied his request for it the funding to get the motor because of that. What do you recommend?

    1. I reccomend getting the ‘CA certified’ motor. There are different versions on harborfreight.com so you just have to look around and find the right one.

      1. This is the only way I know how to post here, but I have this engine in a go kart and when you make hard right turns it shuts down. Pull the cord and it fires right back up. I figured maybe not enough oil in the case and it’s rushing away from the sender but you can only get so much oil in it from the two filler caps. Any thoughts?

        1. Disconnect the low oil sensor. Look for a wire coming out of the base of the block, its a bullet connector (ususally yellow wire). Just check your oil before you ride it. I do this on all the go karts I fix up.

  34. I have a predator 212 I put an air intake, preformance exhaust, re jet the carb #36 with the emulsion tube that came with the jet kit. With these mods ran great. When I put the 8* timing key on the flywheel shaft ran good for about ten min now it won’t start and some times rips the starter chord out of my hand what happened?

    1. Could be any number of things but I bet you didn’t torque the flywheel down to 65 ft lbs, and you sheared the timing key. Take off the flywheel and see what happened. Also, could be valve lash.

  35. Hey love the thread and the simplicity to get your cart to the next level provided by the site thanks! I have installed the intake exhaust and rejetted the carb. Runs awesome! I have just removed the gov also. And ordered the billet rod and flywheel. I have read some about cam and spring upgrades. How much more could i get with those? And also what about an entirely new carb. Your recommendations are greatly appreciated. Go Kartfab!!!

    1. Ok so with the governor removed I definetly got more rpms. Towards the top of the rpm range it seems to lose power and not gain speed even though it gets loader. Is this because the valves are not closing fast enough? Floating? If i put in stronger springs woyld it let the engine build more rpms? And if so how much stronger a spring would i use over stock while not robbbing the engine of horsepower?

        1. I will probably mod this thing all the way out over the course of the next few months. Need to know where i go next. This is a street cart. Murray two seater. Its already fast for a gocart but i would willingly take it to an extreme level. Once i built tgis thing to the maximum and am confident in my abilities i will build something bigger. Probably the 13.

        1. So i get a cam that is 8° advanced since the billet flywheel is 8°? Do i need billet valves or are the stock ones fine? And are the 18lb springs enough? Thanks.

          1. No any cam you buy will have a dot on it line that dot up with dot on crank gear. Only thin you need look at is what timing and springs that cam requires. And what ever fits the rest of your build

          2. So there are a plethora of cams to choose from im going to get the 380 with the valve cover spacers and it comes with the springs however it does not indicate timing requirements. Will it work with the 8° advanced timing my flywheel already has? And if the lobes do not clear the crank what are my options?

        2. Hi i have a predator 212 with header intake billet fly wheel with 32 degrees timing advance cam springs lifters restricter plate and its running on alcohol. Im sick of destroying bully clutches. The rebuild on one is 125 and new is over 350. Im looking for a old bell style clutch with atleast a 4500 rpm stall. And i cant seem to find one. Any suggestions?

          1. You need to go and talk to a guy at a kart shop. Those bully clutches dont grenade like that unless you are using them in a way they were not intended to be used, or not maintaining them properly. Problem is not the clutch, problem is misapplication of clutch use.

            With that said, take a look at the golf cart style clutches. You may need to put 3/4″ to 1″ adapter on it, but the comet 780 is good for up to 7000 rpms and can handle all the hp you can jam into the predator 212. keep in mind that if you do use a torque converter, you will lose hp through parasitic drag. The disc clutch is superior to a torque converter in this regard so you will lose out bigtime if you are putting a torque converter on an engine and racing around. also, if you look at GTC industries, they are reviving the comet 340 series torque converter, which is a smaller lighter duty version of the comet 780 built for the 3/4″ shaft engines and jr dragsters back in the day. No gurantee of its usefulness on a modified engine though so you may need to contact them as well.

      1. Your springs are floating I looked up “hemi swap on 212cc predator motor” and a nice vid came up t hhat goes in to detail about what springs are the best for th re motor that’s where I’d look

      2. Don’t run it high with a stock flywheel and rod!! It’ll explode and you could get injured. If you plan to run stronger springs which will, yes, allow you more rpm’s, then please upgrade to a billet flywheel and rod. They are designed to handle the higher rpm’s.
        Btw, the reason it won’t go any higher is because you’re floating the valves….basically, the springs are battling so much force that they can’t close the valves which is why you get stronger springs.

  36. Ok im completely new and wanted a hobby as well as some fun… I recently got a 212cc and havent done any mods yet to it. First off im gonna get a torque converter and upgrade air filter…. I would really like to know what exhaust system would be great for quiet… Also can anyone tell me where to get the hemi cover with the breather.. And exactly what all do i need to do to instal it

  37. I got a new camera for my engine and I’m not sure how it’s supposed to fit in I took the old one out by taking out the rods and pushing in pins but now when I put the new one in and put it all back together it dosent get held in place by the pins and rods in other words I can just pull it out its this ok it’s a height 212 and I bought the performance kit for it for omb warehouse plz help

  38. Hey KartFab, I removed the governor on my predator and now when the choke is off the engine throttles way up on its own without me touching the throttle. Any ideas?

      1. I have linkage from the throttle arm to the top of the carb and the throttle arm returns to the idle position. Yet when the throttle is in idle and we turn off choke it revs up and begins driving!

      1. No they don’t. Most centrifugal clutches handle the extra hp. Comet clutches have a max HP and max RPM rating on them, when you exceed that you shred belts, break sheaves, shear metal off of the drive hubs, and sometimes the drive unit flies apart.

    1. You cannot make that comparison, because engines are not “fast” they rotate a shaft (measured in rotations per minute) and produce torque, and how you gear a go kart with a particular engine, and transmission determines how fast the go kart will go.

  39. I put on air filter and breather filter where do the vacuum lines from the top of the gas tank go if I add a breather filter to the crank case?

    1. The line from the top of the tank is just for EPA purposes to recover fugitive vapors. The line has a one way check valve connected to it. You don’t have to do anything with that line. The valve cover breather can be vented to atmosphere as well. The reason people put filters on them is to keep the oil from spewing everywhere if it gets up that high on a corner. A lot of people don’t even put filters on them, instead, they run the lines to a can that collects the condensate called a catch can.

  40. I don’t know anything about these engines but I want to learn. The predator 212 seems very popular but which one is better and what is the difference hemi and no hemi?

    1. hemi is better, but the difference in performance isnt that big. The valve cover is different with the hemi (cast) vs non-hemi (stamped steel). Main difference is the head.

  41. When it comes to billet rods should i purchase stock length or +.020 rod ive read the little bit larger rod is drop in also with out any other modification is this true im trying to get the best bang for the buck already purchased the billet flywheel ?

    1. It depends. If you have to ask that question, you should do more research and measure on your own. If you get a +.020 and keep the same piston, your piston could pop up out of the block an extra .020. Depending on a ton of other factors (cam, gasket, rockers, timing) you may end up with the piston hitting something else and ruining yoru engine. Simple question, should I? Simple answer, it depends.

    1. You dont have to but in my opinion i would upgrade it , it allows a finer more consistent stream of fuel to the carb .

  42. Im running a 2 hole e tube with a .038 jet on my 212 predator with intake and header is there an all around better fuel setup i can be using and if not what size low end jet should i use ?

    1. Have you read the plug? Seems like it would run rich with that size of jet. All around better fuel setup would be to get a mikuni 22 mm carb w/adapter. They have ones that bolt right onto the predator and you dont have to jack with the throttle linkage as the cable attaches directly to the top of the carb.

      1. Kartfab just checked plug today does seem to be running rich do you think a 140 e tube and 35 36 jet is a better option also will be looking into the carb you mentioned another question at what hp should i start thinking about a torque converter do i need one ?

  43. hey kartfab…gotta question…..my predator 212 ..custom air/exhaust…upgraded jet….i got some 26 # valve springs,are they too stiff for a stock engine?…should i go down to 18#?..i want to avoid the mod 2 cam,as i dont want it to sound like a racer engine and it makes crazy power as it is

    1. any springs that are heavier than stock will rob horsepower until right before they float. 26 is a lot, and completely unnecessary. Just to give you some perspective, box stock racing engines only use 10.8 lb valve springs, which limit the rpm to around 6000, so anyting more than that is overkill for what you are doing. Most times, if you buy a camshaft that is a performance cam, you will get a card with that cam that tells you what you need to set your valve lash to, timing to, and what valve springs to use.

  44. how much more hp will taking the gov out? I have a predator on a mud motor can I get away will just taking the gov out or do I have to do the fly wheel and rod??

  45. i have a predator on a mud motor. its all stock and i average about 11 mph with just two people in my boat.. i would like to get up to 15 loaded with 2 people and gear for duck hunting. how muxh poower does just taking the governer out make? and or just doing an air filter jet and header? and then both combinded? dont wanna spend a but load of money! or i could just buy a bigger hp engine
    thanks in advanced!!

    1. so to answer both of your questions, you get the cheapest AND most hp gains from just doing high flow exhaust and intake with rejetting. You can remove governor, and put a cheap tachometer on there. The rod will break first before the flywheel. Do not put in heavier valve springs if you plan on keeping in the stock rod and flywheel.

  46. So I was about to remove my governor but then I heard that doing that can blow my engine. Is there anything I could do to make it not blow up but still be able to àgo at fast speeds with my kart

  47. I started out building the standard gokart and decided midway to upgrade to live axle with disc brakes and the larger rear wheels. Do I need to also upgrade to the torque converter?

  48. I want to know if I take a non hemisphere air box and muffler and add them to my hemisphere how does this help me when racing the stock predator class

  49. Hello my question may have been asked but I didn’t see the thread if so. I have a Predator 212 non hemi and I bought a high flow intake and filter and installed it onto the engine. I noticed very quickly that it was not running very well and I immediately knew that it was the jet so I bought a drill bit to the exact recommended size and drilled out the jet. That didn’t help at all so I moved onto buying the better built carburetor that you can change the fuel air mixture on and tried the jet I redrilled and that didn’t work so I tried the new one and then tried redrilling the new one and nothing worked. Would it be safe too assume that self drilling the jets doesn’t work properly or do you think it could be something else?

    1. if you put a high flow intake and filter on it, you gotta put the performance exhaust on it. That is your problem. Also, you cant just go drilling holes. Try a 0.035″ jet with a gx140 emulsion tube.

  50. My 212 cc predator engine started making a REALLY REALLY loud grinding noise when i press the gas. What is my problem?

  51. As part of an introductory engineering course, we’re taking apart Predator engines. However, I’m not sure if I need a 6 inch puller or an 8 inch puller for a 6.5″ flywheel (which is what the predator seems to come with).

    Is the six inch puller appropriate?
    Thanks.

    1. You just need an impact wrench to take the flywheel nut off, and then use a small pry bar and a rubber mallet. Tap the flywheel while using the prybar to put a little leverage on it. Some people break the flywheel loose by just tapping it with a hammer. I have never ever had to use a puller even on old rusty engines.

  52. I disconnected my governor and ran my throttle direct. I did not physically remove the governor from the engine. Will the engine rimfire now that the governor is disconnected? Or do I have to totally remove it? Not sure how it would limit our RPM without being hooked to the throttle.

    1. Mark. Bad idea. If the governor mechanism fails, it will be like a tiny grenade blew up inside the engine and all the bits of metal will cause engine failure. I am not sure what you mean by ‘rimfire’. Also, just remember that the governor is a tiny piece in the performance puzzle.

    2. I am riding mine disconnected but not removed as well. Not having any problems, just tighten something down on the governer lever that connected to your throttle so it doesn’t move and clank with the gear

  53. I just installed the stage 2 performance kit from OMB on my Predator 212cc. New pipe, race carb, 18# springs, breather, and the governor is just disconnected. It will not ripen correctly. It won’t rev up, sputters, dies, etc. Any advice?

    1. Advice? check your valve lash. Physically remove governor. Dont rev past 5500 rpm unless you get a billet rod and flywheel. You dont even need those springs.

  54. I had a friend mess with the screw jet on the side of the carby,and now its dies and idles rough (stock standard motor) how many turns anti clockwise from seated should it be. thanks

    1. ummm there is no screw jet on the side of the carby for the predator 212cc. The only screw that you can adjust on those carbs is a black plastic one, and you adjust it till it idles smooth. If you have a different carb with a brass screw close to the engine side of the intake(idle mixture screw), the standard is about 2 full rotations out from seated. Hope that helps.

      1. I have a 212 cc pred. Engine was going to race it but all the clutches I’ve tried barley move the kart any suggestions these clutches I bought used from a kart shop not sure if it takes too many rpms too turn them or if it’s the engine itself but up on stands it turns the back wheels fine but takes half throttle to turn em

        1. if you got a disc race clutch, they typically engage at the rpms that the predator with governor is limited to (e.g limited to 3600 rpm and clutch engages at 4100 rpm). Might want to call the place you got your clutch from. Honestly, i think it could be either that or your gearing. With smallish tires (15″ or lower) you are usually ok with a 6:1 gear ratio e.g. axle teeth divided by clutch teeth.

  55. I just bought a go kart it has a predator 212 on it. The chain snapped on me there is a chain going from the clutch to a shaft that then has a sprocket that goes to the sprocket on the rear axle. The chain from the clutch to the first sprocket is a 40 the chain from the second sprocket to the rear axle is a 41. Will that cause problems with the chain snapping. Would a torque converter help and what does it do exactly? And I think I can weld a plate on the frame to offset the engine to run one chain from the clutch to the rear axle. I have a lot of questions please help.

  56. I have a 6.5 predator motor on my mini bike i took out govenor and the plastic gears shredded inside the motor and it started dying out n not going so i bought a new motor and took out all parts to the governor completly out then after driving it full out it started dyeing out at top speed on this one too then i read up n said i needed 18# springs to keep it from floating so i did that but its now throwing white smoke from the tail pipe n still at top speed cutting out on me n then dyes completely what do i do or whats am i not doing?? Please!!

    1. Sounds like you are pretty good at ruining your engines. My suggestion would be to call up a go kart race shop and ask them. There are too many variables to mention that could be the cause, and from the sounds of it, you may not even know what to do to get your engine running correctly.

  57. Please suggest a correct gear ratio. I searched on the net and forums and found out that 5:1 gives more top speed but less acceleration than 6:1 but is not capable of carrying weight around 350lbs. so should I opt 6:1? I am using the comet TAV 30 series with 10T driven clutch sprocket and (thinking of)60T sprocket on rear axle with 11″ slick tires. My purpose is a racing gokart not off-roading. The engine is B&S 208cc 9lb.ft@3060rpm with 3/4″ shaft.

    1. Hitesh, 5:1 and 6:1 are both great ratios for 11″ tires and the 30 series torque converter. If you are racing a go kart, then why do you have a torque converter on it? Race karts use disc style centrifugal clutches.

  58. I just bought a predator 212 and I’m about to rejet with a 140/36 combo, I’ve also added a high flow exhaust and intake. My question is my sproket and clutch are from a funkart 5hp do I need to replace these with better ones?
    And should I use full synthetic oil and premium fuel?

    1. premium fuel isnt necessary unless you change your compression ratio (which you have not) any regular pump gas will work, and the higher octane stuff will not make any difference. Synthetic oil will give you a tiny, negligible boost in performance. Clutch, you could do a racing style clutch (disc) or a heavy duty one.

  59. I rebuilt my pred 212 the other day and was riding around and there seems to be a slight loss of power and torque. Also when deaccelerating it seems like it is not engine braking and sounds a bit weird when deaccelerating . My valve lash is set currently to .003, thinking it might be something with valve timing?

  60. This is the picture of the gocar well it looks like it but my back tires are bigger than the picture lol

  61. Today I was riding maybe about 3k rpm or so and I heard a pretty loud bang I wasn’t sure quite what it was so I rode maybe 30 more feet and it did it again so I shut the engine off and stopped. I looked for any visible damage and did not see and. I tried to pull the starter but I couldn’t pull the cord out at all. I drained the oil and took the crank cover off and from what i could see everything was ok. Is it the piston that is seized or what? I can move the piston down with some force, but when it hits the apex and comes back up it only goes up maybe a cm.

    1. Garrett, what you are describing sounds major. There are several possibilities as to what it could be, but you can’t really know until you tear it down. For $120.00, you can buy a 6.5 h.p. Predator from Harbor Freight. It is a Chinese clone of a Honda engine. You won’t be able to fix yours for that, and you can be up and running quickly. Then if you want you can look into the other one when you have the time. This is a shot in the dark, because I don’t know your situation. It’s just what I would do. You may want to take the time to tear it down, and do the research, and buy the parts, and have any necessary machine work done. Anyway best of luck to you.

    2. This happened to a friend of mine on his Predator 212 mini bike. I removed the Flywheel housing and there was a nail nudged between the Flywheel Magnet and the block. I removed the nail and it spun and started right up. Hope this helps you my friend.

  62. I have a Baja Warrior mini bike with a Predator 212. I have read yours and others about performance modification and decided to just modify the air, exhaust, and carb (e-tube 140 and 36 jet). I do not feel I want to disconnect the governor, I just want some more power and torque. As stock I get 22-25mph and with the above modification would expect/hope to get near 30mph. What do you think? Do you think I would notice an improvement with just this modification?

    1. The governor limits your top speed, you will just accelerate faster(more torque), but not go any faster. If you remove governor with those mods, then you can get to that 30 mph range.

      1. I would like to increase rpm from ~3600 (stock limit) to about 4300 to 4500 without removing governor. Can I change spring tension on linkage to achieve that? Also there are two springs in the throttle assembly. Can you explain what each does?
        Thanks

        1. This isn’t possible. The linkage tension only affect the throttle manifold in the carb. The governor literally will limit the Rpms to the stock setting as long as it’s inside. No matter what mods you put on.

    2. More mods won’t get you any more speed unless you remove the governor. Unless you change the sprocket sizes. More mods will just make more power (low end) and acceleration.

    3. Hey why are you only going like 35 mph I have the same thing a Baja warrior with a 212 predator connected to a centrifugal clutch and im going like 55, 60 mph

  63. I have a predator 212 with the modified intake. We are at 4000 foot elevation what do you advise for jet size and emulsion tube? I plan on doing the exhaust as well.

    Thanks

    1. Jetting only starts to matter a bunch above 6000 feet. The higher you go, the less fuel you need as the air density basically allows less oxygen in with the same volume of intake, so you will run rich at high altitude with the same size jet at sea level, so you gotta go with a smaller jet than expected. maybe .032 to .036 range? It really should be based on the power you are making at your target rpm range. You can look up ‘how to read a spark plug’ and get a good idea for it as well as just listening to the engine. If it smokes/bogs down on acceleration, you are probably rich (kind of like you are running it on choke), lean condition can also cause it to bog, but it wont have power and will get hot fast. Id just go with a.036 and see how it feels, you may have to go smaller though based on what you find out with how the engine runs.

      1. Hey buddy do u know anything about cams for the 212cc predator, also i have a torque converter on mine and it runs great I plan to make a mudding cart out of it I wanna take out my governer disconnect my oil sencer putting as high flow air filter and adding a2-3ft pvc pipe so my filter don’t get muddy , putting a performance exhaust also I’m putting a charging coil with the magnetic fly wheel so I can have lights without having to charge a battery I have 28″ atv wheels on it she’ll burn em as it sits but more power is always better haha what cam do u think I should go with and is there anything special I can do to give it more torque ?

  64. Hello I disassembled my new hemi motor .put the mod 2 cam in it. 26 LB springs ARC flywheel thin metal head gasket remove the governor. And that oil sensor. Pipe and air cleaner. rejected the carb . Now when I try to start it . won’t start feels like it has no compression. It has great spark and is getting fuel but it’s like it’s on the wrong stroke! how do I get it back to top dead center . On the compression stroke? I lined up the dogs on the crank and cam. But I think the valves are backwards. How do I fix this ? please help thank you

    1. I figured it out. It was the metal head gasket I put in it ! must’ve not sealed. Put the stock head gasket back in and it had plenty of compression. I found top dead center and it seems to run good.

    2. The thinner head gasket put clearance in the valve train equal to the difference between the two head gaskets. I put a .0010 steel gasket on my Predator 212 in place of the stock .0040 . The engine would not build enough compression until I turned the rocker arm nuts about 1 1/4 turns in. The engine started on the first pull after that.

      1. Daytona, you need to torque head bolts to factory specs and set valve lash to spec for intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge so you get the best performance.

  65. I have a 212cc engine and I think I lost power to my engine once I added a intake my go cart wants to turn off for some reason so I have to accelerate it so it won’t turn off on me

  66. Ok I Have put on a new air filter with the jet that came with it and a new header pipe. I have taken out the Governor on my Predator 212cc engine. My go kart is now really fast and that is what I was going for. It ran great for couple of days I went to start it last night and can not get it started sounds like it is getting spark but will not turn over. Any ideas?

    1. Hmmm is your carb clean? pour a teaspoon of gas in the spark plug hole and see if it starts with throttle wide open. When you remove governor, you gotta make sure that the throttle is manually held open when starting it so it will let air in.

      1. I have tryed everything and still will not start. I guess I will take the side plate off and see if everything is ok inside now I wish I had not ever messed with it. maybe my timeing is off I just do not know. I did not drive it hard be fore it quit.

          1. Adjust idle screw (black plastic one on top) to idle as fast as possible without engaging your clutch. Give it gas only after warming up (run engine a few minutes). make sure intake gaskets are sealing after carb, and that carb has been cleaned.

          2. Finally got the engine started again ran it about a mile and a half engine shut off when I came to a stop. I cant get it started again I am worn out.

    1. a lot. It will increase horsepower and max rpm so you go faster, and have a little more hp. so 7 hp might go up to 8-10, and max speed from lets say 25 might go up to 35 or 40, just depends on what you do and what your gearing is.

  67. Hey, I have removed the governor, blueprinted carb. Jetted to #36 high flow exhaust. I get gas vapor out the carb at full throttle. Any idea what that is caused by?

    1. Hmmm. probably has something to do with timing, valves, flow inertia. If your timing is too far advanced it will cause the air to ‘bounce’ back off of the valve. Valve could not be closing all the way (check valve lash), and with the inertia, your carb doesnt care which way air flows, it just flows from high pressure to low pressure so you might have the wrong size carb opening, wrong size muffler, or a number of things. A blueprinted carb could have an opening that is optimal for lets say 7500 rpm, but you only run it at 400 rpm and you could get that symptom as well. Good luck because I really cant help other than saying that it is a complicated problem :/

  68. I havea prediter engine an im turning it. 4550 an trying yo get more we out up it but im racing stock any advice on how

  69. I have a cl1308 cam it said on card to set timing to 32/34 degrees. It also gave us 2 sets of valve springs. Are we supposed to run them together? How much would it hurt to leave timing stock and pros and cons on the springs if any info? Thank you!!

    1. Some valve springs are dual rate (looks like two sets, but has an inside portion and an outside portion that fit together). If you are just building this engine, you want to take out the inner portion of the spring set for the break in period, then put the inner portion of the spring in after break in is complete. Valve springs are highly dependent on your target RPM and cam, so they are probably the right ones. For break in you want to buy oil specific to break in (aka BREAK IN OIL) brand doesn’t matter as long as it has ZDDP in it to protect the lifters and cam from wearing down before they mate together. To answer your question about leaving timing stock, I would say this: if you want to leave timing stock, do not even put the cam or springs in there. Timing, cam, valve lash settings, and springs ALL work together. If you disregard any of these settings, then your engines performance will suffer.

    1. I have a Pred 212 with no gov, free flow header and uni air intake(filter). I’m Thinking I need a new clutch, as I am going above about 3.6k rpm at times. I’m not sure on what one to get. What do you recommend?

      1. any racing clutch will work, noram cheetah, bully etc as long as it is a ‘racing’ clutch it will rev as high as you want it. Will cost $100-$350 depending on quality of clutch but they will all work.

  70. Need help, I’ve drilled holes on the stock airfilter box, changed the exhaust to a 1 inch pipe. After those mods my predator 212cc takes a while for it to start.

    1. the governor was removed? Governor holds the throttle open so if you remove it, you gotta put on choke and manually hold governor open and it should start right up. If its already warm, you start with no choke.

    1. the breather tube out of the halve cover should just vent to atmosphere. The tube from the tank can be capped, but its not necessary as it actually has a check valve in it.

  71. I have read just about every comment on this thread. Highly educational. Glad to know the answers to all these common issues. Great Kart rebuild site!!

  72. I just upgraded the intake, exhaust, and carb jet. I’m quickly reaching the motors peak because of these recent upgrades. What should be my next upgrade? Removing the governor, obviously. But after that it seems I would need to upgrade the other components on the motor. What would those be?

  73. i have not made this yet but i am gonna build it now because the engine is on sale for 99.99 on harborfreight.com but if i buy the engine the kit and the steel is that everythig i need

    1. It will run lean, overheat your engine, and have poor performance at best. At worst, you can seize your engine. Let me ask you a question: why bother with an intake and exhaust if you aren’t going to jet it correctly? Might as well keep it stock if you do that.

  74. Hi again, normally for the stock 6.5 hp engine I would need a 30 series torque converter, but if I add all of these performance parts will I need a bigger torque converter since it increases the hp?

  75. question I’m running the 212 predator motor with a header mod drilled out intake runs fine just having hard trouble starting really hard to pull then jerks back at some points what could be the problem

    1. Valve lash set too wide (doesn’t open compression release) or a sheared flywheel key (timing messed up). Did you ever mess with the head, flywheel, or put in a cam without a compression release?

  76. I bought a upgrade kit to install on my predator 212cc motor. I’m not sure how to install most of parts. My biggest question is how i install the walbro fuel pump. Do i just use the hole in the OHV cover to the vacuum side of the pump or what?

    1. If you plan on keeping the stock gas tank on the engine, there is no need for a pulse pump like that. The only reason you need that is if you install a remote gas tank below the height of the carb. The valve cover does need what is called a ‘pulse fitting’. The hole that is already in the cover is to vent to a catch can with performance intake already there. There are plenty of places to find out where and how to install a pulse fitting based on your valve cover (hemi/non-hemi) so you just need to do a little searching on google.

  77. i plan on doing the intake, re-jet & exhaust and maybee hi-comp head….this is just a predator powered fun kart…question is, at what point is a better centrifugal clutch needed & what do you recommend???

  78. I have several ?s i am running a box stock predator class we are allowed to remove the gas tank an replace with a topplate an fuelpump we are allowed to remove the govenor and low senser switch We have to run the factory air box and factory exhaust the engines are goin to be sealed so my ? i know i cant change the valve springs because they will tech those what can i do to just be at the limit of passin tech an get all the hp i cn get outta it any ideals or theorys eould be greatly appreciated

    1. LOL!!! Whell I would say, follow the rules or risk getting banned. Can you run a cam? Can you mill the head? can you deck the block? can you index the spark plug? Can you install a longer plug for higher compression? Can you run light oil? Can you bore out the cylinder for a slightly larger displacement and slightly larger piston? Can you get a slightly longer rod for increased compression? Can you advance timing for your target rpm? Can you get a billet flywheel? Can you jet for your target RPM? Can you get a bored out carburetor? Can you port and polish? CAn you install different ratio rockers? Can you install roller rockers? can you get higher nose pressure springs that are still legal? Can you install a gx160 head for higher compression? Can you taper the exhaust pipe to mate perfectly with the exhaust port? can you polish the exhaust tubing interior for optimal flow? Can you get chrome-moly push rods? Can you install file to fit rings sized to your target max RPM?

      Other basic stuff that is LEGAL would be to properly break in your engine, lap your valves, and ensure proper valve lash.

      Also, tires and optimal GEARING are going to get you far, and probably make the biggest difference besides the engine. Crap tires or incorrect gearing can ruin you in a race. If the rules allow it, get a disc clutch (e.g. cheetah, bully) instead of a centrifugal clutch, and set engagement at peak HP rpms. Make sure your alignment is good, and is done perfectly for the track you will be racing on (e.g. oval vs other. Bearings should be in excellent shape too.

      1. I have a predator motor and everything on it is stock. I took the governor out and the oil sensor. It also has the performance exhaust header on it already. I want to take the gas tank off the top of the motor and put the top plate with the fuel filter on top of the motor. One line on the filter runs to the tank, the other one goes to the carb, but I think the other one is supposed to go to the OHV cover. Do I have to tap a hole and put a spout on there to run the line? Also I want to know how much hp it will have after I replace the stock flywheel, use longer rods and all that other performance stuff.

        1. Colton, you don’t need to put a pump on the motor with the gas tank setup that way. The choice is up to you though, and yes you would need to run the fuel pump off the crankcase pressure. If it were me, I’d just leave the tank on it and get the performance intake and re-jet the carb. You can expect about 8-10 hp (vs 6.5 hp stock) with those upgrades. Do not get a longer connecting rod, just get stock unless you plan on getting a performance piston that calls for a different length billet rod.

      2. Hi kartfab would like some input i am busy with a kart and got a Honda G150 engine will it be good for a kart or not

  79. I have removed the governor. And the oil sensor on my motor. What do I do with the on off switch? Will it run with it disconnected?

    1. the yellow wire (assuming you have a honda clone or predator) that goes from he low oil switch that comes out of the block has a bullet connector to another yellow wire. All you have to do is unplug the yellow wires and it will prevent the engine from dying around corners. The kill switch will still function this way.

  80. I’m a little nervous as to remove the governor, I’ve had past adults in my life telling me that removing it is a bad idea, are there any precautions I should take? What risks do I run (besides blowing up my engine)

    1. Also, if I’m removing it from a predator, which already has a seperate throttle system, would I need to do anything to ensure that the throttle would still work

      1. yeah man, removing the governor is a big deal. If you over rev you could break the connecting rod or shatter the flywheel. Connecting rod is more likely to go, and it would punch a hole in the block if it went. If you stay under 5000 rpms, this probably wont happen, and valve float will probably occur before you reach rpms that could break the connecting rod or flywheel (happens around 6000+ RPM, but is not a figure to say anything less than 6k is good, which it is NOT). Don’t put in heavy springs unless you get a billet connecting rod and billet flywheel, then the motor will be good for a much higher RPM.

    1. To do 10k you will probably need a stroker kit from arc. a Big mikuni carb. Roller rockers and a high lift cam. You will also need some cnc ported ports in your head. It might make it.

  81. I have the predator hemi with 26lb springs f275 cam ss valves 1 to 2 rockers head milled 050 will this set up be ok for valve to piston clearance please help dont wont to blow it up. Thanks

    1. Check your cam card. A cam with a high lift accomplishes the same thing as rockers – they both lift the valves HIGHER, allowing air and exhaust to flow more freely through the head. This is further complicated with TIMING, and clearance with the head being milled… Here is what CAN go wrong 1) higher valve lift may cause springs to bind – you don’t necessarily need super heavy springs, just springs that are good enough for your target RPM, springs rob hp, but let you rev higher. Check spring specs vs total lift height of valve. You may need to do some additional work with creating a pocket and installing a retainer so the springs don’t bottom out. 2) higher valve lift in conjunction with a longer duration cam, and advanced timing may cause valves to contact piston (unlikely) but it needs to be checked. You need to figure out DURATION of the cam to make sure the valves are closing in time. You can do another check by putting play dough in the head, and rotating everything. The valves will leave an imprint on the play-dough and you can see if it is thick enough. You will need to call a reputable race shop and ask them, or do some serious investigation looking at tables to make sure everything works out alright. Please, make sure you put on a billet flywheel and billet connecting rod. Because you have heavy springs in there, you don’t want the engine to over rev and grenade the connecting rod and or flywheel.

  82. I’m sitting here reading the comments and thinking about porting and polishing, cam, larger jet in the carb, new flywheel, and connecting rod hooking up a tachometer, and oil temp gauge. With the cam I would need the stiffer springs, and while it’s apart, might as well lose the governor. Then the man said, if you are going to do that much, you might as well go with a two cycle that was designed for that. I thought we were staying with a common theme here. Home built Go Cart with a Predator engine. That combination is really cool because it allows just about everyone to get a Go Cart. Not just any Go Cart, but one that is a good cart , with a new engine. The fact that you put it together yourself is just icing on the cake. The design of this cart, I think is excellent, so it’s going to be that and the Predator.

  83. I have upgraded my predictor motor with the header pipe,intake,carb. When I start it it smells like something is burning . Any clues what it could be

    1. well, engines burn gas to run, so that might be it 🙂 What about jetting, did you rejet? After you run your engine for a little bit, check the spark plug. Is it wet? Dry? Black? White? Brown? Any colored smoke coming out of the exhaust after it warms up and you have the choke off?

  84. Ok so I upgraded my 212cc predator and put an air filter adapter with air filter . Where do the lines from the top of the gas tank and the other line from the valve cover go? I’m trying to find out what to do with both of them. Plz help. (And it’s also a he might if that has anything to do with it)

    1. the line from the gas tank is just a vent that the EPA requires. It has a one way check valve in it, so you don’t have to do anything with the line from the tank, just don’t plug it. The line from the valve cover is also one of those emission reducing lines so it originally vented back to the airbox. Well, you dont really need that to vent to the airbox, so it can vent to atmosphere. Some people attach a hose clamp and small air filter or fuel filter on the vent to keep dirt from getting in the vent. Some people just rotate it and let it vent downward.

  85. I have a non hemi predator 212 with a wind pma on it that runs 24 hrs. I have carb problems as the engine doesn’t run very smooth. Any recommendations to what I can do to this for fuel economy and smoothness and longevity.

    1. hmmm, i would say best practices would be to remove the air filter and pre filter and get a new one, wash the pre filter and make sure you change oil and air filter according to run time in the operation manual. The carb would need to be cleaned. If you want the engine to run best in the long term, you don’t want to remove the governor, just keep it all stock and maintain it according to the users manual. Syntheitic 10w30 oil would probably be the best in above freezing temps, and 5w30 in below freezing.

  86. Hi,
    Great thread! I’ve read that if you remove the governor that the flywheel should be replaced with a billet one. Apparently, at higher rpm the stock flywheel can shatter. I’ve never seen this personally. Do you agree? I’m not racing my kart. It’s just for fun but I want it to be safe.

    1. Mike, you should buy a tachometer and make sure that you never exceed 5500 RPMS with the stock flywheel. Once you start exceeding 6000 rpms you will need to get a billet connecting rod and a billet flywheel. The thing that prevents exceeding 6K rpms is what is called ‘valve float’ – valves stop seating because the valve springs can’t fully close them before the next cycle. This acts as a secondary governor to keep the engine from failing. You can get a cheap tachometer from ebay and monitor your RPM’s to be safe. As a disclaimer, you are doing this at your own risk and the liability is completely yours for any engine modification other than stock. Whatever you do, NEVER replace the valve springs without replacing the connecting stock rod and stock flywheel with billet aluminum ones at the same time.

  87. If you have the high flow header, the high flow intake, and re-jetted carb, what kind or power should you expect? Is 8-10 HP and 10-12 ft-lbs a reasonable assumption?

        1. If you want it to be stock appearing, you don’t mod it 🙂 Stock appearing usually refers to springs, which are usually meant to look stock, but may be illegal to race with, unless your particular set of rules allow ‘stock appearing’ mods.

      1. It is best to change out the emulsion tube when changing out the jet, but not required. The emulsion tube change just allows for a stronger fuel signal in the carb.

    1. The oil sensor removal is not required. Most people just disconnect the yellow wire coming out of the low oil shutoff. It has a simple bullet connector that you just separate.

  88. I live in the suberbs with no-fun parents and neighbors; Adding a header will produce too much noise. Is it possible to skip the header, and just go for the jet and intake mods? Or if someone knows of of high performance header, that also muffles noise, that would be very appreciated. Thanks!

    1. yeah you could skip the header, and do intake/jet mods.

      The high performance headers also have the option of putting a stinger style performance exhaust muffler on them. If you click on the link, you can scroll down to see the other items that are related to go kart performance exhaust systems and get the stinger muffler (from what I am aware of, it just clamps onto the exhaust with a hose clamp.

  89. I have hemi 212 what you recomend to get 15hp,thats what I need to get in the air with a paramotor, If get 6500 rpm with 2to1 reducción to the propeller I will be fine
    Thanks you.

    1. Intake, exhaust, governor remove, rejet.

      Arc billet flywheel w/adjustable timing advanced to ? 8 degrees ?, arc billet connecting rod and bearings.

      New valve springs with higher lb rating than stock. New valves meant for racing. New rockers meant for racing. Walboro fuel pump. Direct throttle linkage. Racing cam.

      Also, to monitor your engines performance, thermostat and tachometer. If the engine gets too hot you could warp the valves and grenade the engine.

      If it were me personally, I’d get a high performance 2 stroke meant for this stuff, as your life literally depends on it.

      1. Thank you very much for you advaice, i being flying for a month without any problema pleny of power.
        Gabe

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